Exploring Évora

This Bit of Wisdom Could Be Anywhere, but It Is in Évora

This Bit of Wisdom Could Be Anywhere, but It Is in Évora

Oct. 15:  We are loving our pousada and the features that make it unique.  We especially like that we now sleep where the nuns used to.  Our day began when we went to breakfast in the most gorgeous breakfast nook either of us have been in to date.  The tall arched ceilings in the medieval cloister with their mustard yellow ribs were like rays of sunshine.  Eighteen century azulejos decorated the walls.  Even the room where the breakfast foods were presented, had an intricately carved stone archway.  read more…

Posted in Alentejo, Europe, Portugal
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Beja, Évora’s Easy Going Cousin

Red Tile Portuguese Rooftop Close Up

Red Tile Portuguese Rooftop Close Up

Oct. 16:  We both found Évora to be totally charming and neither of us were in a rush to leave, even though we knew Beja was our final destination for the day.  The carriage ride yesterday revealed a few places we wanted to see today and so it was. . . .

Our first stop was a museum that was entirely about local crafts.  Some of the local resources that were used were cork, sedges, and grasses for weaving, and local woods like olive wood.  The room was arranged by medium and also chronologically.  read more…

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Guadiana Valley Natural Park and Serpa

This Rooftop Decorated with Plastic Figures Sets It Apart

This Rooftop Decorated with Plastic Figures Sets It Apart

Oct 17:  We are soaking up the tranquil vibes in Beja, as we should, since tomorrow, we are headed to the Algarve.  When in Rome. . . . .

As we noted yesterday, the woman at the pousada told us that most of the town’s sights are closed early Sunday and all of Monday.  We figured we may as well get out into the countryside, since we know that it never closes.  Plus we liked the idea of being out and stretching our legs in the wild.  We did some research online and found that the wild area of Guadiana Valley Natural Park or Parque Natural do Vale do Guadiana was relatively close by. 

read more…

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Alcoutim to Palace of Estói

Special Clay Pots Used Specifically Cooking Pork – So the Fat Can Settle

Oct. 18: We awoke this morning knowing that our Alentejan chapter was complete.  With no sense of urgency, we took the better part of the day to head south and land in Estoi in the Algarve region of Portugal where I am now writing.  The Algarve is the southernmost portion of Portugal.  It runs the width of the nation for about 100 miles and goes inland 25 miles or so.  As far as land mass goes the Algarve is just a fraction of Portugal, but it is a heavily visited section.

Although we were aware this was a pretty developed region of Portugal, we were interested in the beautiful rock formations and beaches that we had seen and read about in our research.  Based on that research, we decided to stick to the less developed towns.  And also, by going in October we took solace that we would avoid the summer tourist season.

So, in the morning, we departed Beja and drove south, more or less paralleling the Guadiana River and the Spanish border.  On the way, we stopped at the little riverside village of Alcoutim.  Most villages we had visited sit perched atop hills.  This one was different in that we wound down from the plateau into the river valley.  read more…

Posted in Algarve, Europe, Portugal
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Exploring Ria Formosa

Olhão Is a Developed Fishing Village

Oct. 19:  Well, travel can wear you down, or at least I should say it can wear me down.  Despite it being the end of summer weather, I have managed to get a bit of a cold.  But I wasn’t going to let something like that stop me.  We woke up at the palace and we knew that we didn’t want to hang out in the strip mall developments and that our best bet was to get out in nature and experience what we believed the Algarve was truly about. 

I did a little bit of internet research and found a boat tour for the Ria Formosa.  read more…

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Faro to Cabo de São Vicente

A Palace Indeed, How Sweet

A Palace Indeed, How Sweet

Oct. 20:  Palatial life – now this, we can get used to.  We are hanging at the Palace, pretending we are royalty.  Is there a better way to spend an evening?  Our morning began with the massages I had scheduled yesterday.  I was really looking forward to some much needed self-care time.  Dan went first and I went to use the sauna which wasn’t on.  So I sat outside by the pool, overlooking the Algarve and the Atlantic.  Then I had my massage.  It was OK.  But honestly, Dan and I agreed that they could have done better on the pampering and quality level.

Cabo de São Vicente

Replete with Formal Gardens

read more…

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Walking In Sagres and the Alentejan Coast

Breakfast at the Pousada

Oct. 21:  I awoke just in time to catch the colorful sunrise off our balcony.  The sunrise was almost as pretty as the sunset last night.  The extra sleep and grocery isle healing was working its magic and for this I was grateful.  This being said, Dan and I adjusted our meeting time with Carla who was going to take us walking in Sagres.  We wanted to enjoy the pousada and have a slower paced morning.

The weather was even warm enough for us to sit outside for breakfast next to the lovely pool.  read more…

Posted in Algarve, Europe, Portugal
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Vila Nova de Milfontes to Queluz Palace

Sala dos Embaixadores in Queluz (Hall of Ambassadors)

Sala dos Embaixadores (Hall of Ambassadors) at Queluz Palace

Oct. 22:  We are back in Lisbon.  Our Southern Portuguese circle is complete.  And tomorrow morning, we will cross the big pond called the Atlantic Ocean.  But there’s still a lot of ground to cover before I sign off for a while.

Last night, we did a little ritual.  I think it evolved because the weather was yucky, so we were holed up inside.  But honestly, it’s a good one, so even if the end of your vacation takes place when the weather is nice, consider this ritual anyway.

read more…

Posted in Europe, Lisbon, Portugal
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Portuguese Azulejos Photo Album

Portugal, especially Lisbon, is filled with tiles, or azulejos as they are called in Portuguese. I took many, many pictures of tile facades on buildings as well as tiled walls and decorations.  It was hard for Dan and I to decide which ones we should share with you. We had to cut many of them to keep the picture album from becoming overwhelming.  It was truly a painstaking process.

Since there are websites that eloquently describe the role of the azulejos in Portuguese culture, I am going to defer to them. Go Lisbon is one such site and this is some of what they have to say:

Tiles (called azulejos) are everywhere in Portugal. They decorate everything from walls of churches and monasteries, to palaces, ordinary houses, park seats, fountains, shops, and railway stations. They often portray scenes from the history of the country, show its most ravishing sights, or simply serve as street signs, nameplates, or house numbers. 

Although they are not a Portuguese invention (the use of glazed tiles began in Egypt), they have been used more imaginatively and consistently in Portugal than in any other nation. They became an art form, and by the 18th century no other European country was producing as many tiles for such a variety of purposes and in so many different designs. Today, they still remain a very important part of the country’s architecture. 

Also, when we were shopping at A Vida Portuguesa, I purchased a gorgeous book on azulejos. I looked through several, and this one was the clear winner. The pictures were outstanding and they are coupled with the proper amount of text. It’s worth getting just for the pictures!

I hope you enjoy the photo album, portraying a totally charming aspect of Portugal. . . 

Tile Facades

 

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A colorful wall of azulejos in the countryside

  

Street Name

House Number

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

House Number

Queluz Palace

Queluz Palace

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Archaeological Museum in Beja

Interior Wall

Wall Plaque

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lisbon Subway

 

Azulejos on Homes in the Alfama

Alfama in Lisbon

Posted in Europe, Portugal
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Olympic Peninsula to Victoria

A Gardener's Palette at Butchart Gardens

A Gardener’s Palette at Butchart Gardens

Sep. 2 and 3:  I am now settled into a charming loft on Yates Street in Victoria, British Columbia.  It took a lot to get here from my home in Eugene, Oregon.  Departing on Friday afternoon of Labor Day was not ideal, but it was what worked in mine and Michael’s schedule, and so it was.  We were off on our adventure to go from the Olympic Peninsula to Victoria.  The traffic was seriously yucky in Portland, but was fine once we crossed the bridge into Washington.  We booked it to Olympia and stopped for Koibito Sushi, a place known for great fish and lack of ambiance.  That was according to TripAdvisor.  In reality, the ambiance was lacking and the fish was actually just OK.read more…

Posted in Canada, North America, Victoria
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