Bonjour Paris, the Arc de Triomphe & Tour Eiffel Tower

In Paris Fashion Precedes Comfort

In Paris Fashion Precedes Comfort

Oct. 5:  Aaaahh – The City of Light.  How invigorating it is to be back in the City of Light.  It hasn’t taken long for Paris to move to the top of my list of favorite places.  For hundreds of years, it has charmed people from all over the world.  And I have officially joined the “Oh, I am just in love with Paris” club. 

So here we sit in our apartment in Montparnasse, which has an excellent view of Tour Montparnasse and a sort of view of the Tour Eiffel.  It’s been a long day.  Let me go back to the beginning.

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Louvre, Tuileries Garden, and Passard’s Arpege

The Louvre Was All That I Envisioned and More

The Louvre Was All That I Envisioned and More

Oct. 6:  We sit in our 500 square foot mansion, more than a tad tired.  It has been a long day, one that was full of awe and art and spontaneity and two excellent meals. 

Our day started bright and early and this afforded us the pleasure of watching the sunrise out the bedroom window.  Paris has some classically romantic looking rooftops and the orange sunshine beckoned a great day ahead.

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Catacombs and La Dame de Pic

The Catacombs Are Seriously One of the Coolest Things in Paris

The Catacombs Are Seriously One of the Coolest Things in Paris

Catacombs and La Dame de Pic

The Challenged Duck Was No Challenge for Us to Eat

Oct. 7:  We are back from what has become our annual dinner at Anne-Sophie’s.  Our busy day started out with what has become our annual attempt to visit The Catacombs.  Two years ago, we showed up bright and early on a Monday morning only to discover that The Catacombs are closed on Mondays.  Last year we showed up on a Saturday afternoon to discover we would have needed to wait for hours in line to enter. 

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Bastille to Pont d’Alma and yam’Tcha

Autumn Beckons Its Abundance

Autumn Beckons Its Abundance

Oct. 8:  Now it’s really late.  The subways shut down at 1:40 AM on Saturdays and we caught ours in the nick of time.  It’s been a full day.  From the Bastille in the east to the Pont d’Alma in the west and things in between, we have covered a lot of real estate today.  We mixed it up with subway rides and lots of swinging from the hips.

With our interest in certain chefs, Ducasse being one of them, we wanted to find his patisserie just as we had wanted to try his bouchon, Aux Lyonaise.  In addition to being a chef, Ducasse is an ever expanding entrepreneur.  He has a food empire and is well known in France.  He developed the patisserie in collaboration with the noted pastry chef, Christophe Michalak.  It is in the form of a kiosk, Choux d’Enfer.

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Montmartre and L’Atelier St-Germain

Sacre Coeur Is the Heart of Montmartre

Sacre Coeur Is the Heart of Montmartre

Oct. 9:  I write this piece from a plane, flying from Paris to Lisbon.  It’s about a two hour flight and, knowing an entire other country and culture awaits us when we land, we have to make the most of our time for blogging.  But let me go back to yesterday morning.

We had planned our day in northern Paris strolling through Montmartre, but since Tour Montparnasse was a block away, we started there.  From the outside, it’s a very ugly building, and out of place with its surroundings.  On the upside, if you get to the top on a sunny day, you get a great view.

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Lisbon — Baixa, Rossio, & 100 Maneiras

A Woman Preparing Codfish Cakes, a Portuguese Staple

A Woman Preparing Codfish Cakes, a Portuguese Staple

Oct. 10:  4:30am came way too quickly but we got our tushes out the door by 4:45am.  We didn’t know if we would end up taking a taxi or public transportation, as it depended on if there were taxis available at that time of day.  Heading down to Gare Montparnasse, I spotted an available taxi (green light on top of the car) two blocks down a side street, so I hoofed it and ran up to him and we were good to go to Orly.  Orly is a lot smaller than CDG and seems to be better suited for travel within Europe.

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Alfama District, Miss Can, & Belcanto

Classic Portugal

Classic Portugal

Oct. 11:  It’s chilly and raining outside, but it matters not.  We are enjoying some late night tea in our room at the Lisbon Pousada.  We started the day with breakfast at the pousada before embarking on a day of exploration of the Alfama district.  From our research, both Dan and I were most intrigued by this part of Lisbon.  It’s the only part of the city that was not destroyed by the earthquake in 1755. 

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Belém, Jeronimos Monastery, & Cooking Lisbon

We Admired This Tree Every Day

We Admired This Tree Every Day

Oct. 12:  We are having our ritual late night tea at the pousada, recounting the fun we’ve had traipsing around Lisbon.  Almost every picture depicted of Lisbon features Belém and so it certainly made it our must do list.  It’s a bit out of town, but again, it has some very key sights that any visit to Lisbon should include.  Dan checked out the best public transportation route and we opted to take the streetcars.  We checked with the hotel concierge and she agreed and pointed us in the direction to get our tickets.  She mentioned we should get a one day pass so that we could ride any form of public transit all day.  She took the extra effort to explain that it was six euro, which meant twelve euro for the two of us but, as she explained, we would get our moneys’ worth after two rides. 

Now this is something we have noticed happens frequently in Portugal.  They are very focused on making sure you understand what things cost and what you get for that price.  Sometimes they want to double check that you really grok that room service will cost two euro.  They explain and reiterate another couple times.  This is completely different from France, which often has no price tags on items or even a menu.  And getting a couple jars of mustard or a couple samples of tea, you get a surprise when they tell you that it will be 60 euro.  The Portuguese don’t seem cheap, but just very concerned about full disclosure.

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Mercado do Ribeira, A Vida Portuguese, & Feitoria

One of Many Remarkable Tile Facades

One of Many Remarkable Tile Facades

Oct. 13:  Dan and I are back from our final walk to Rossio and it’s after 1am.  We started our day in an easy going fashion, because what the heck – we are on vacation after all.  Blogging at a café and watching the world go by is a very European way of passing the time.

When we were on the streetcar yesterday, Dan had noticed a large market hall not far from our hotel.  It turned out it was the Mercado do Ribeira.  Time Out, the well-known publishing company took over the historic market and revived the fruit and veggie market.  They also created a food hall with 24 restaurants, eight bars, a dozen or so shops and a music venue.

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Arraiolos Rugs, Megaliths, Évora

The Roman Temple in Évora

The Roman Temple in Évora

Oct. 14:  I write this from our new home, the Convento de Évora, located in the heart of the Alentejo.  We awoke in Lisbon and got organized to head east into the Alentejo, the next chapter of our travels.  The Alentejo occupies about one third of all of Portugal and it’s pretty much the bottom third of the country, minus Lisbon and the southern coast.  We were attracted to it since it is rural and a bit more off the beaten track.

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